Left is a pdf of the below text.
LOL! one of my students thought of this idea, after the fact of course. Take a pic of the piece after the resist is applied, but before the wet grounding so you can find all the leaves and berries after the entire piece is covered. I missed some of mine!
AUTUMN LEAVES...CLASS PROJECT
Select bright, strong, clear colors. Prepare them so that you can
get a smooth full load on a large brush. Lay these colors on in a
random fashion. Meld the colors into each other but do not get
them muddy. That will ruin the piece.
You want light and medium
coverage so you can shade the leaves and still have good color
and a place to wipe back for highlights. See first pictures of just
Collect a variety of interesting leaf shapes, different types and
sizes. I looked on Google under autumn leaf photos, pinterest,
and facebook. There are an unending supply of color pictures of
different types of leaves. Trace leaves & tape them over the
colors that are fired. Design the piece so that you have large,
medium and small leaves, some overlapping, and you have large,
medium and small interesting negative spaces. Trace and pen in
the leaf shapes and some vein work.
Shading the leaves is where all the moaning begins. There will
not be a green leaf to shade, there will be a green, yellow and red
leaf to figure out how to shade. Some places will need
brightening, some placed in more shadow. I had to do my
shading two times before I was satisfied with the combinations.
Fire at 016
if your reds will hold true at this firing, if you are afraid
they will brown, cool it off to 017.
After you have resisted all of the leaves it is time to wet ground
the back ground. There are numerous methods of doing this, I
will give you instructions on how I do mine.
Powder paint, black
or rich brown. Silk screen oil, heavy copaiba or fat oil can all be
used as the main oil. I will be using silk screen oil. Mix dry paint
with silk screen oil to a consistency wetter than you would paint
with, but not runny. Thin this down with a little lavender oil. Spread this out thin on a tile. Use the large pink sponges and dab
into the paint. Pounce GENTLY and do not race to finish. Move
back and forth, in and out of an area before you move to a new
area. You cannot just dab this on, you literally have to work it
gently to keep from having too much texture or paint in any one
area. Be under good light so you can see if you are getting
buildup. This will work for you in one firing if you apply it carefully,
no buildup, no sloppy dabbing. Pull the resist off carefully and
clean out any areas that ran under the resist, or with a small
brush, repair any mess ups that may occur. I do not let it air dry
before pulling the resist because it is too hard to do repairs if it
has already dried. Air dry the piece until it has a Matt
Fire at 016 very slowly!
I double the low and
medium time for the kiln to warm up, with lid propped open to
allow the smoke out. Then turn to high and check it an hour or so
later to be sure it went off. Those of you with computer controlled
kilns have to just fire and hope.
The last fire it optional, I like to accent and outline the leaves in
roman burnish gold.
If you have any questions email me at
firstname.lastname@example.org or call me at 405-919-0312.
always happy to help in any way I can. Enjoy!